CAROL CHRISTIAN POELL " Disjointed " 2007

Lift Etage opening 20th, Aug ,2007 opening

First of all, we asked ourselves “how can we use hard and tough leather for garments?” to begin this project. Out of many methods, a bold idea of having the tanning process being done after the production came up. This means having it as raw leather, also known as the state of “hyde”, where the leather is peeled off the animal and the body hair is cleansed off with chemicals. Then this leather is soaked into water, so that it becomes soft enough for the stitching to be done easily. Also, this particular leather allows the stitches to be visible after drying it for about 5 minutes, and it strengthens the bond on the surface, which improves the quality of the leather. Using this leather, which is crafted with this method, a detail was invented in order to make the joints stress-free while working on it.

次の段階としてベーシックトラウザーの新たな開発が、今回のコレクションに取り入れられた。これは'07SSに2D(フラットスト-リー)のストーリーが開発されたので、今回は全くその逆のボリュームのアプローチへ展開された。例えば、ベーシックトラウザーはjointのディテールが使用されたアイテムが登場しbox trouserはデニム素材+オーバーロック仕様のアイテムが登場した。




As a second step, the correction and the innovation of basic trousers became a part of this collection. In the ‘07SS collection, a 2D story was shown, so this time the approach was to make it an opposing one to the past. For example, an item which uses the details of the joints are used on the basic-trousers, whereas denim-materials and over-locks were used for the box-trousers.

This time, a even-more new stitch story was invented. This is the complete opposite story to the over-lock, where small stitches are done inside the joints between the parts to enhance the toughness, and the stitches won’t be visible.

On the pockets of garments such as jackets, are the new ideas of “letter pockets” set. This looks exactly like the entrance of the post with the flamps on both sides are fixed, and when it is reversed, a petit-sized pocket reveals itself.

In terms of leather shoes, the development is on its final stage but it is very delicate and experimental as it is the first time where donkey’s cordovans are used. 3 pairs out of 4 pairs that have been made have been damaged during the development, which proves its delicateness.

OPENNING : August, 2007
Photo© Masahiro Tsunoda
Text© Masahiro Tsunoda at Lift Co.,Ltd